Rene Lalique And The Art Nouveau

Rene Lalique is the master architect of Art Nouveau jewelry in France.

Lalique (1860–1945) was born in the countryside of Ay-Champagne in France.

First taking an apprenticeship with Louis Aucoc in Paris, he studied at the Ecole des Arts Decoratifs de Paris and soon became a jewelry designer for companies including Boucheron and Cartier.

In 1885, at the age of twenty-five, he set up his own atelier in the Rue de Quatre — Septembre.

As a protest against mass produced jewelry, Lalique used ivory, horn, opals, and enamelling techniques.

And instead of precious stones like sapphires, ruby or emerald, he favoured semi-precious stones, glass and enamel. His inspirations were the cycles of nature, flora, fauna and the female form. Lalique designed perfume bottles for Francois Coty in 1907 — from this he expanded his business to glassware.

It is worth noting that the Art Nouveau period was around the same time as the electric lightbulb came into being. Enamelling was a key feature of the genre.

Art Nouveau ran from 1885 to 1910 and while it originated in France, it quickly came to the attention of Europe and the USA.

The protagonists of the Art Nouveau movement used fluid, mysterious and surreal designs based on nature.

Peter Schaffer said “ Art Nouveau is full of symbolism and allegory, hidden messages and underlying meanings around courtship, friendship, and deep true love” (Bernstein, Beth : Antique Jewellery, ACC Art Books Ltd, England)